現在位置 首頁>檢索服務>詳目式

全文網際網路開放

研究成果: 從傳統到創新:臺灣客家服飾文化在當代社會的過渡與重建=From tradition to innovation: The transition and reconstruction of Taiwan's Hakka dress culture in contemporary society

  • 作者:楊舜云(Yang, Shun-Yun)(研究生)
  • 其他作者:鄭靜宜(Cheng, Ching-Yi)(張維安)(Chang, Wei-An)(指導教授)
  • 語文:中文
  • 出版者:輔仁大學 
  • 系所名稱:織品服裝學系
  • 學位類別:碩士
  • 出版日期:2008
  • 畢業學年度:96
  • 頁數:93
    • 主題:生活技藝-服飾技藝
    • 關鍵詞:客家服飾、客家文化、傳統創新、文化重建、傳統再造、Hakka Dress、Hakka Culture、Tradition-Innovation、Culture Reconstruction、Tradition Reconstruction
    • 國家:臺灣

      摘要:

      這是一個關於傳統再造與文化重建的研究,在紮根理論的基礎上,本研究透過文獻分析、參與觀察和深度訪談等研究方法,重新檢視客家服飾從傳統到創新的興替流變,目的是要發掘客家服飾文化的特色,並探索出它在當代社會過渡重建的策略。
      本研究從人類在各種脈絡中如何利用外觀管理塑造自我身分認同的服裝社會心理觀點出發,在分析上,視客家服飾為「客家人在特定脈絡中,集體選擇以創造客家文化,表達族群身分的符號體系」,先分析那些已經被認定為「客家傳統」的服飾的物質性特色,再將它置於客家的歷史、社會脈絡中探究其物質性特色所表現出的社會意義和文化精神,發現客家婦女簡潔樸實、富機能性的傳統服飾,同時反映並支持客家社會結構和秩序的建立,也表現並強化客家人的勤儉文化精神,進而發展出的「講求經濟實用,不虛華矯飾」的衣著觀,和簡約、自然、理性、素雅的審美偏好。
      然後,我們將視野轉移到當代,觀察客家服飾文化流變和發展的現象,追究傳統和再製客家服飾未能繼續沿用或普遍被認同、接受的原因,最後,再根據當代社會脈絡條件下,人們實際的衣著需求,提出形象服飾和時尚服飾雙管齊下的重建策略,甚至更進一步地,把客家服飾的文化精神、美學概念提煉、創建成客家美學風格,並將其轉換成時裝品牌精神長期經營之,以達到重建並延續客家服飾文化的生命力的理想。
      This study is about tradition-innovation and culture reconstruction. Based on the grounded theory, this study reexamined the development of Hakka dress from tradition to innovation by using documents analysis, participant observation and in-depth interview. The purposes were to explore the characteristics of Hakka dress culture, and to find out the strategies to transform and reconstruct it in the contemporary society.
      This study began from the social psychological perspective of clothing that how humans in various contexts use appearance management to shape self-identity. On the analysis, Hakka dress was considered as “the sign system that Hakka choose collectively to create Hakka culture and to express ethnic identity in specific contexts.” The researcher analyzed the material characteristics of dress which were already regarded as “tradition of Hakka” first, and then explored the social meanings and cultural spirits of these dress within historical and social contexts of Hakka, and found that Hakka women's succinct, plain and functional traditional dress reflects and supports the establishment of Hakka social structure and social order, and also express and enhance Hakka's industrious and frugal cultural spirit, and then develop the dress idea of“emphasizing economy and utility, deemphasizing flauntiness and luxury”,and aesthetic preferences toward simple, natural, rational, and plain.
      After that, the researcher observed the phenomenon of changing and developing of Hakka dress culture in the contemporary society and investigated the reasons why traditional and remade Hakka dress fail to keep on using or being identified and widely accepted. Finally, the researcher put forward the reconstruction strategies that Hakka image dress and Hakka fashion dress working along with each other according to people’s real clothing needs within the contemporary social context. Moreover, the researcher suggested refining and establishing the cultural spirits, aesthetic concepts of Hakka dress into Hakka aesthetic style, and transformed it into the fashionable dress brand spirit and managed it over a long period of time in order to achieve the goal of reconstructing and continuing the vitality of Hakka dress culture.

      目錄:請點選以下目次顯示內容

      中文摘要.................................................................................................................i
      英文摘要...............................................................................................................iii
      謝誌........................................................................................................................v
      目錄......................................................................................................................vii
      圖目次................................................................................................................. ii
      第一章  緒論:族群服裝文化消逝的省思..........................................................1
      第一節 研究緣起:要如何重建客家服裝文化?......................................1
      第二節 研究目的:重建客家服裝文化......................................................3
      第三節 名詞定義........................................................................................3
      第四節 文獻回顧:服裝、族群、文化和身分的動態關連..........................5
      第五節 研究範圍、方法與過程................................................................16
      第六節 章節安排......................................................................................20
      第二章 臺灣客家傳統服裝的文化特質..........................................................22
      第一節 臺灣客家傳統服裝的物質性特色..............................................22
      第二節 臺灣客家傳統服裝的社會性特色..............................................28
      第三節 臺灣客家傳統服裝的精神性特色..............................................32
      第三章 臺灣客家服飾的發展現況..................................................................38
      第一節 客家傳統服飾的式微..................................................................38
      第二節 地方產業的改良式客家服飾......................................................41
      第三節 新建構的客家意象服飾..............................................................45
      第四節 伸展台上的客家創意服飾..........................................................53
      第五節 現況省思:去脈絡的象徵元素....................................................58
      第四章 傳統再生的過渡策略..........................................................................60
      第一節 客家形象服飾的過渡策略..........................................................60
      第二節 客家創意服飾的設計轉換方式..................................................67
      第五章 結論與建議..........................................................................................77
      第一節 客家美學風格的創建..................................................................77
      第二節 脈絡分析的研究意義..................................................................80
      第三節 未來建議.....................................................................................82
      參考文獻............................................................................................................. 84
      附錄一 研究主要參與活動..............................................................................89
      附錄二 正式訪談受訪者基本資料..................................................................90
      附錄三 訪談大綱..............................................................................92